“Wait, I need how many litter boxes?”
defecating outside the litter box
Litter Box Facts
The saying “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” definitely applies to litter boxes! Follow these simple rules to avoid many of the most common reasons for inappropriate elimination.
Litter Box Basics
You need to consider the number, size, and type of boxes.
How many? The basic rule is a minimum of one litter box location per cat, plus one. That means if you have two cats, you should have at least three litter box locations. Many cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. In a multi-level home, you should have at least one litter box on every floor, even if you only have one cat.
What size?
When it comes to litter boxes, larger is better. Even the so-called large litter boxes sold in pet supply stores are too small for most cats. The litter box should be 1-1/2 times the length of your cat’s body so that your cat has room to move around in the box and not have to step in soiled areas.
We recommend using large plastic storage bins instead of commercial litter boxes. You can cut an entrance on one side to provide easier access. The high sides of these bins help contain litter when the cat digs and covers. Some cats, especially older and arthritic cats, can’t or don’t squat to urinate, and may accidentally urinate or defecate over the side of a smaller box; these bins eliminate that problem.
Purchase clear or transparent bins, especially for multi-cat households. Cats are vulnerable when they are in the litter box, and it’s important that they can see what’s around them. You can bring us your own bin and we’ll cut and sand the entrance for you for a minimal charge. Drop off location is at Paws, Whiskers and Claws, in Marietta, Ga. If you decide to try cutting an opening on your own, you must use a Dremmel Tool with a heavy duty reinforced cutting disk.
Litter box types
- Do not use hooded litter boxes exclusively! The hood traps odors inside and, even if scooped every day, it will quickly become offensive to your cat. The hood also makes it easier for a cat to be ambushed if there is any aggression between cats.
Note: A hooded litter box may be helpful if you have a cat that is shy about her toilet habits, but offer uncovered boxes as well.
- Even though we recommend large storage bins as litter boxes, consider providing a large shallow container as an alternative. For example, you can get an inexpensive 30”x30”x2” plastic drip pan (intended for washing machines) at Home Depot. These are ideal for arthritic cats.
- Electronic self-cleaning litter boxes may work for some cats, but we do not recommend them for a number of reasons.
- Do not use litter box liners. Cats generally don’t like the feel or the noise of these bags, and they actually create more mess than not using them because cats’ nails snag and tear the liners. Scented litter deodorants may irritate your cat’s paws and the scent is offensive to delicate feline noses.
Litter Box Location
Placement of the litter boxes is extremely important. The litter box areas must be comfortable, convenient and safe.
- Provide litter boxes on every floor of a multi-level home.
- Do NOT place litter boxes in the same area as your cat’s food and water. You wouldn’t want to eat where you eliminate and neither does your cat!
- In multi-cat households, do not place the boxes in “dead end” locations (such as closets) that offer only one way out. If a cat feels threatened by another cat, the dead-end location may create an opportunity for her to be ambushed, and she’ll avoid using the box. Place the litter boxes in open areas or next to a cat condo (see photo above) so your cat has the option to flee “up”. Avoid forcing the cat to use stairs or a cat door to reach the litter box because that can also lead to an ambush.
- Do not place litter boxes in dark, loud, or odorous places, such as the laundry room or near the furnace!
- Cats cannot see in the dark; there must be a light source nearby so that the cat can use the litter box at night. Nightlights work well.
- To keep other pets or small children away from the litter box, you can place a baby gate across the room entrance. You can raise the bottom of the gate a few inches off the floor to allow the cat to crawl under or jump over.
If you have further questions or would like an evaluation of your litter box placement, please contact us.
Choosing the Litter Box Filler
Remember to offer UNscented litter. Your cat’s nose is far more sensitive than yours. What smells “fresh” to you can be overwhelmingly strong to your cat, and may lead to litter box avoidance!
Scoopable litter
Most cats prefer clumping scoopable litter over clay litter. Brands of scoopable litter differ in texture; you can experiment a bit to find the texture or brand that you and your cat like. (However, once you find a litter your cats like, avoid changing brands because sudden change can be disruptive to your cats.) You must scoop out clumped waste daily.
We recommend Dr. Elsey’s Cat Attract litter. It is a clumping, scoopable litter that tracks less that other clumping litters. Cats prefer the size and texture, as well as the natural herbal blend (the scent mimics the aroma of soil and plant materials). You can use Cat Attract Litter Additive to any brand of unscented litter. We also recommend Dr. Elsey’s Precious Cat Classic Unscented or Ultra Unscented litter.
A good alternative for geriatric cats is Dr. Elsey’s Senior litter. It has antibacterial properties which is especially helpful for seniors with chronic urinary tract infections. Dr. Elsey’s Kitten Attract is good for declawed cats as it is very soft.
If you notice that your cat doesn’t bother to cover the urine or feces in the box, chances are she doesn’t like the type of litter you are offering.
Clay litter
Clay litter box filler is recommended for kittens that might accidentally ingest the finer scoopable litter. You must empty, clean, and refill the box daily. We recommend the Publix brand unscented clay litter.
Alternate litter box fillers
Cats in the wild can chose from a wide variety of surfaces such as grass, pine straw, dirt, gravel, etc. You can provide options for your indoor cats too. While scoopable litter should be the filler in most boxes, you can offer alternate litter box filler in one or two boxes.
Some cats prefer using a puppy-training pad inside a regular litter box. The pads are available in any pet supply store. Cats may use them for urinating as well as defecating. Remove the soiled pad, wipe the box clean, and replace the pad whenever it is soiled. Puppy-training pads are a great option for cats that urinate excessively. Pads may also be preferred by declawed and arthritic cats.
Strange as it may seem, some cats prefer an empty litter box. They may not like the feel of anything under their feet except the smooth plastic box.
Avoid alternate litter box fillers that have a strong odor, such as cedar or citrus-scented litter or recycled newspaper pellets. The texture of these pellets is not preferred by most cats, remember the softer the better in most cases. This also applies to the pine pellets and crystal litters; they are often not preferred.
Litter Box Cleanliness
If you’re using clay litter, you must empty, clean, and refill the litter boxes daily. Don’t just scoop out the solid waste and stir up the wet litter; it may look better to you, but all you’ve done is spread the urine throughout the box soiling the entire box and making it offensive for your cat to step in.
If you’re using scoopable litter, scoop each litter box at least once daily. Add fresh litter as needed to replace the soiled litter that was removed.
Empty and thoroughly clean scoopable litter boxes at least every 1-2 months. Use soap and water and be sure to remove all traces of litter and soil, and then disinfect the box with a 10% bleach solution. Be sure to rinse the box thoroughly afterward to remove all traces of bleach! Be mindful of scented the cleaners you are using. Cats do not like the smell of citrus so use a mild soap such as lavender or honeysuckle, scents which are actually pleasing to cats.
Keep the area around the litter boxes clean. You can place the litter boxes on a plastic runner, a vinyl tablecloth, or a short-knapped bath mat. These can be cleaned easily by shaking them outside or laundering them.
You can place a tracking mat in front of the litter box. Be mindful of the texture that the mat provides. Many mats are spikey or made of fake grass-like textures. Many cats will avoid such mats and attempt to jump over them or just eliminate elsewhere. Nothing is foolproof. If you have cats be prepared to accept some level of litter tracking.
Replace litter boxes about every two years, or more frequently if the surfaces become deeply scratched or stained. Use a Sharpie to mark the underside of each box with the date you purchased to help you keep track.
Cleaning Soiled Areas
If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat’s delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.
There are many odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme cleaners tend to work the best. We recommend Magic Zymes, Urine Off or Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover. We have found these products to be quite effective when used as directed.
What If My Cat Starts Urinating or Defecating Outside the Litter Box?
There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:
- Medical conditions,
- Stress and inter-cat aggression,
- Poor litter box logistics.
Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!
The first step is to take the cat to your veterinarian! The most common reason for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.
After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes. Read the handout “Coping with Inappropriate Elimination” for help in determining the cause of the problem and how to address it.
Coping with Inappropriate Elimination
(Or undesirable elimination, as it is all appropriate to your cat!)
Cat owners often become understandably frustrated when their cat begins to urinate or defecate outside the litter box. Nearly 1 cat in 10 will have an inappropriate elimination problem in her lifetime.
Why isn’t my cat using the litter box?
There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:
- Medical conditions,
- Stress and inter-cat aggression,
- Litter box logistics.
Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!
What should I do if my cat starts urinating or defecating outside the litter box?
The first step is to take the cat to your veterinarian! The most common reason for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.
After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes.
Do not punish the cat or confine her to just one room. Some people think they can “re-train” the cat in that way, but it doesn’t work! Cats aren’t trained to use a litter box; they use it instinctively. Confining the cat to one room will increase her frustration and stress level, but it won’t solve the problem!
What medical reasons can cause litter box problems?
Your cat may have a urinary tract infection, urinary crystals, bladder stones, or external infections such as urethritis or vaginitis. It could even be pain caused by a seemingly unrelated problem such as an abscessed tooth or arthritis.
Why? If your cat feels pain or discomfort when she uses the litter box, she doesn’t understand that the pain is coming from her kidneys or broken tooth, or whatever the cause. She just knows that litter box=pain, so she’ll try to find another place to eliminate, hoping that will make the pain end. But urinating on the bedroom carpet doesn’t ease her pain either, so she tries another spot, and the cycle continues!
You may even need to change the look, feel, or location of the litter box after the medical problem is resolved to encourage your cat to use the litter box again.
Other medical problems that may be associated with inappropriate elimination:
Kidney Failure Constipation
Diabetes Mellitus Impacted Anal Glands
Hyperthyroidism Intestinal Parasites
High Blood Pressure Skin or Flea Allergies
Anxiety Disorders Cancer
Appropriate treatment of the underlying medical condition may end your cat’s inappropriate elimination. If not, it’s time to examine other possible causes.
Stress-related elimination problems
Yes, cats can get stressed, and they may show their distress by urinating or defecating outside the litter box.
Stress can come from changes in your household: moving, the birth of a child, the addition of another pet, etc. These stresses may cause not only litter box problems, but they may aggravate existing medical conditions.
When possible, introduce changes gradually, and allow the cat to explore new people and things at her own pace.
You can help your cat cope by providing a “safe room” for your cat – a place where she can go to escape the stress. The safe room must have food, water, litter boxes, a comfortable kitty bed, and some toys. Put a baby gate in the doorway to discourage unwanted visitors. Introduce the cat to the safe room, but you don’t need to confine her there; let her use it when she feels the need.
Cat condos and cat trees are important to stress management. A tall sturdy cat tree gives your cat a secure perch from which to view what’s going on, and it gives her a place to escape. This is particularly important if you have small children, dogs, or multiple cats. The height offers your cat safety and a feeling of control. It is especially comforting to them if they can view multiple rooms from a single vantage point.
Consider using Feliway, which is a synthetic product that mimics feline facial pheromones and helps a cat feel at ease. It is available in a spray as well as an electric diffuser.
We offer behavioral counseling and a variety of educational handouts that may help you make your cat more content and less stressed.
Aggression between cats
One cause of stress is aggression between cats in a multi-cat household. You can greatly reduce this aggression by providing plenty of litter boxes as well as multiple food and water dishes. It is important that the cats don’t have to compete for too few bowls and boxes! Place feeding stations and litter boxes throughout your home; don’t concentrate them in one area! Cats are at their most vulnerable when they are eliminating, and so it’s vital to make sure that they feel safe in the litter box and won’t be ambushed by other cats, the family dog, or a curious toddler!
Feliway (described above) can help with aggression issues. You can also call us to discuss other behavior modification options, including medication.
Remember that cat trees and cat condos are important to multi-cat households. They help cats establish a hierarchy, which is important to their group dynamic.
Litter box logistics
There are several factors to consider, including the number and size of the boxes, location, type, litter box filler, etc. Inappropriate elimination could be the result of having too few litter box locations, using the wrong size or type of box, placing the boxes in inappropriate locations, or using the wrong litter box filler.
Please read our Litter Box Facts handout for detailed information on maintaining your cats’ litter boxes.
Cleaning and managing soiled areas
If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat’s delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.
Sometimes the best solution is to give the cat what she seems to be asking for: place a litter box in the area where she’s eliminating! If you don’t want to leave the litter box there permanently, we will advise you on how to gradually move the litter box into a more acceptable location after your cat uses that litter box consistently for several weeks.
There are several odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme-based cleaners tend to work the best. The product that we recommend most frequently is Magic Zymes. We also suggest Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover and Urine Off.
You can also make the soiled area less attractive to your cat:
Place cat’s food or water at the site (after cleaning)
- Provide alternative way to mark (scratching post or pad)
- Aluminum foil
- Scat mats
- Potpourri on the site
- Motion sensors with audible alarm
- Catnip on the site
- Double-sided tape
- Upside-down contact paper or vinyl carpet runner (nub side up)
- Citrus-based sprays (many cats dislike the smell of citrus)
- SsssCAT motion sensor deterrents
- Engage your cat in interactive play at the site or train your cat to do simple behaviors there to change their perception of that space.
Call us for additional ideas about deterrents!
If that doesn’t work…
Sometimes a cat will continue to soil an area that has been thoroughly cleaned.
Why? The cat apparently feels a need to mark that spot. Every time you remove the scent marking, your cat may be compelled to mark the area again.
When that happens, you can try a different approach. Instead of using enzyme cleaner, clean the area with plain water, then spray the area with Feliway. You won’t smell urine, but your cat may be satisfied that the area is still marked, and not need to mark it again. Use Feliway on the area; the Feliway encourages facial marking and reduces the chance that the cat will spray urine there again.
Spray Feliway on the area once daily, then gradually decrease and use as needed.
Note that the enzyme cleaner breaks down the pheromones in Feliway, making it ineffective, so don’t use enzyme cleaner on surfaces marked with Feliway.
The bottom line
- Inappropriate elimination often has a medical cause.
- There is always a reason; it is up to us to figure it out. What they are doing may be undesirable to you, the human, but to the cat it is instinct.
- There are many things you can do to prevent behavioral litter box problems. It’s far easier to prevent these problems than to resolve them after they start.
- Always remember that your cat’s relationship with the litter box is complex and emotional. It’s not just a feline toilet!
Constipation in Cats
What is constipation?
Constipation can be defined as an abnormal accumulation of feces resulting in difficult bowel movements. This may result in reduced frequency or absence of defecation. The feces are retained in the large intestine or colon. Since one of the functions of the colon is water absorption, the retained feces become hard and dry, which makes fecal passage even more difficult.
Constipated cats strain in an attempt to defecate resulting in abdominal pain. Some constipated cats may pass small amounts of liquid feces or blood. They will often vomit during and/or after straining to defecate, whether or not feces are produced. They will also often lose their appetite and/or become lethargic when they are constipated.
Many constipated cats will defecate outside the box and often it is unintentional. They may start out in the litter box trying to defecate but little or nothing comes out until they start to walk away. The physical activity of walking helps some feces fall out to the ground. Alternatively, they may defecate wherever they are if they get the urge, which can be very frequently since their colon is so full and a litter box may be too far away. Finally, they may start to associate the pain of straining and difficult defecation with the litter box and develop an aversion to using it because of that.
Painful cats, just like people, may act in ways we would refer to as cranky, easily agitated, or aggressive towards people, especially children, and/or other animals. Pain or discomfort from any source often causes cats to act out of their ordinary routine. They may hide, be less social, have different eating habits, and/or different elimination habits as described above. Sick or painful cats are not being spiteful or acting out of anger, just out of distress. It is their natural instinct to behave this way. In the wild, a painful or sick cat is a weak cat and a weak cat is a potential victim. Changing their normal routine and/or demeanor may ward off a potential predator. So you see, what seems abnormal to the untrained human eye is actually normal to the feline survival instinct.
What causes constipation?
Factors associated with causing constipation include:
1. Hairballs, especially in long-haired cats.
2. Ingestion of foreign bodies.
3. Obstruction caused by tumors, strictures or masses compressing or blocking the large intestine.
4. Pelvic injuries resulting in a narrowed pelvic canal.
5. Damage of the nerves, which cause the colon to contract. This may develop after trauma or may be part of a more generalized neurological disease.
6. Dehydration from other metabolic disease conditions.
7. In some cases, there is no underlying cause.
Constipation is a condition seen most commonly in middle-aged and older cats. In the vast majority of cats, there is no underlying cause.
Anal Glands
In addition to constipation, some cats may develop enlarged or impacted anal glands that can also make it difficult for feces to pass through the anus. Anal glands are sacs that are located under the skin, at about 4 and 8 o’clock on either side of the anus. They empty with normal defecation. These anal sacs are filled with a foul smelling liquid and a few drops are usually excreted to mark their stool during the process of defecating. For some cats, the liquid within these sacs can become dry and cakey, making it difficult to be excreted. Sometimes anal glands can become infected and even rupture. For cats that are straining to defecate, the anal sacs should be evaluated and emptied to ensure that feces can comfortably pass. Full anal sacs can cause discomfort, be itchy, and contribute to defecation outside of the litter box (and the commonly seen “scooting” behavior).
What is Megacolon?
This term refers to a dilated and weak colon that has lost the ability to contract and push feces out the anus. Megacolon may be seen as a primary problem or following long-term constipation. When the colon becomes distended with fecal material over a prolonged period of time, its ability to contract may be reduced or lost resulting in Megacolon.
How are constipation and Megacolon diagnosed?
In most cases, a diagnosis of constipation can be made on the basis of the cat’s clinical signs. Affected cats usually strain unsuccessfully to defecate and may cry in pain. Any feces passed are hard and dry. Often cats will leave small amounts of hard, dry feces outside the litter box as they may continue to strain and pass feces as they walk around your home. Or they make think they are finished in the litter box and the physical activity of walking helps remove any fecal balls left near the anus. The cat may also show signs of lethargy, reluctance to eat and vomiting.
X-rays are also the primary test for the diagnosis of Megacolon. Bloodwork is also helpful in diagnosing any underlying causes of dehydration, such as kidney disease, which can predispose the body to constipation.
How can constipation and Megacolon be treated?
Initial treatment of a cat with constipation may involve administration of enemas and manual extraction of feces by a veterinarian. The latter may necessitate anesthesia. Treatment of dehydration with subcutaneous fluids may also be needed in cats that have become dehydrated. If the constipation recurs or becomes a long-term problem, continuous therapy may be needed to prevent recurrence.
Most cats need a stool softener twice a day. A wide variety of treatments are available to soften the feces and promote regular bowel movements:
Increasing the amount of canned food intake helps to soften feces. Your veterinarian can help you decide which variety of food would be best for your cat’s overall health.
Increasing water intake by adding water bowls, drinking fountains, or flavoring the water with chicken broth or tuna water to encourage drinking may be recommended. Always provide a traditional water bowl in case your cat does not prefer the flavored water.
Subcutaneous fluid therapy at home may also be recommended on a regular basis to maintain hydration.
Lubricating laxatives or stool softeners for example, hairball remedies such as Laxatone*, Laxaire*, Petromalt*, or even plain Vaseline* (petroleum jelly is the main ingredient in the previously listed products) may also be used in mildly affected cats.
*It is important to note that these products should not be given with anyy medications as their job is to bind and escort out which lessens the absorption of pill and liquid medications!*
Small amounts of dairy products every day can help soften stool since most cats are lactose intolerant. Examples of dairy that many cats enjoy: cream, half and half, sour cream, ice cream, whipped cream cheese, yogurt, and milk. Many people consume non dairy or lactose free milk. These will not help your cat, so be sure you are offering true dairy products.
A prescription stool softener, Lactulose, may be recommended.
Miralax is an over the counter, flavorless powder that can be easily mixed into some canned food. Always consult with your veterinarian regarding what dosing range is safe and appropriate for your cat!
Those more severely affected may need motility drugs that stimulate contraction of the colon. The doses of all of these drugs and/or supplements may need to be altered to produce the desired effect.
*IMPORTANT* If your cat is already constipated and exhibiting symptoms of straining, yowling, and vomiting, the above listed products WILL NOT soften the hardened stool already impacting your cat’s GI tract. You should see your veterinarian immediately!
Ideally, cats should defecate at least once every other day. Over a period of time, resistance to treatment can occur, necessitating an increase in the drug dosage or a change in therapy. No changes to the treatment protocol should be made without consulting your veterinarian. Even with chronic medical treatment, every once in a while cats may need to see the veterinarian for enemas and/or manual evacuation (This is when the veterinarian manually removes feces from the rectum).
In long-haired cats, regular grooming such as combing, sanitary and stomach shaves and lioncuts are helpful at reducing the potential for high volumes of fur being ingested. Hairball removal agents listed above and hairball diets may also help reduce the likelihood of hairballs causing constipation or GI obstruction.
It is important to ensure that there is always access to enough large, clean litter boxes dispersed throughout the home so that frequent defecation is encouraged.
If Megacolon develops or if the constipation is severe and medical treatment is unsuccessful, surgery may be recommended but this is uncommon. Surgical treatment involves removal of most of the colon called a partial or sub-total Colectomy.
What is the long-term outlook for a cat with this problem?
As long as a constipated cat receives its daily medications as prescribed by the veterinarian, cats do well. The long-term outlook varies according to the cause of the constipation; however, the vast majority of cats can be adequately managed without surgery and resume normal, healthy lives. It is imperative that you stay in close communication with your veterinarian about what treatments are successful and which are failing so that you can continue to be guided on further steps to ensure the best possible management of the problem.
